Bittersweet Wan Song Kran - April 20, 2011

Wan Song Kran is a HUGE event all over Thailand; I’ve heard that it’s most fun in Chiang Mai in the Northern region however Esan people know how to have a good time so I didn’t think they would fall short.  I was not disappointed! 

In short, it’s the Thai New Year.  It’s celebrated with lots of water and wishing good luck particularly to the elders for a happy and lucky new year.  The festivities began in Don Nang Hong (DNH) on Tuesday.  Each of the 11 villages in DNH chooses 1 beautiful and smart young lady to represent their village in the Miss Song Kran contest which is basically a beauty pageant.  There was a big parade that included each young lady on a float and the people in her village dancing, singing, drinking, celebrating, etc.  The parade was led by a special someone in the community…can you guess who?  Yep, the parade was led by me J  I was originally told that I was going to be dressed in traditional Thai gear and make-up and crowned as Miss Song Kran.  However, for reasons unbeknownst to me that unfortunately didn’t happen.  I was actually really looking forward to it, but it was so hot that it was probably smart not to dress me up.  So, the parade marches through the community to the site of the festivities.  Lots of speeches were made, one made by me in Thai of course – this is a regular occurrence now. There’s drinking, eating, dancing, etc.  I was able to see some great traditional Thai dancing.  Some were less traditional with the typical funny guy ridiculously dressed as a girl and just having fun. But the big event is the Miss Song Kran contest.  The girls were beautiful and it was a fun day.   While this is going on, those not attending are out in the streets throwing water at everybody.  People stand in front of their houses throwing buckets of water at people passing by, either on bicycles or cars, it doesn’t matter….everybody gets soaked!  This goes on for 3 more days and was like nothing I’ve ever seen before.  My host family took me to this one place where it was like a giant block party where tons of people lined up in front of their houses to soak everybody and put powder on their faces.  There is Thai music blasting, people drinking and dancing in the middle of the street.  People on their motor cycles and people packed in their pick-ups drive through to get wet and soak everybody else dancing in the streets!  And nobody ever became upset! It’s a fact that you will be soaked for 3 days straight and people love it because it’s like a cheers to new beginnings and good luck.  So, the more wet you get and the more powder you have all over you, the better!  It is the type of celebration I would love to bring to the states!   The 2 days following, I biked around DNH and although it was more tame than the 1st day, it was so much fun as well.  People everywhere – I was stopped at many houses so people could pour water on me and to powder my face and maybe stop and dance a bit.  It was a great way to meet people and just have fun.  When I meet people in the community, communication is limited.  So, it’s hard to discuss anything beyond simple conversation.  Meeting people during Song Kran was a great way to just have fun, scream and laugh as they pour water and wish good luck.  Spirits were fun and light and it’s just a general ‘feel good’ time.   

I titled this blog ‘Bittersweet Wan Song Kran’ because despite the fun, there was a tragic event that took place in my community on Tuesday April 12^th.  Two young girls, 6 years old and 7 years old drowned in the large community river where the festivities took place.  The girls were playing in the morning and after the girls didn’t come home, their parents went searching for them.  Parents and community members searched for a while and announcements were made.  Eventually, the girls were found in the river but it was already too late.  It was one of the most heart wrenching things I have ever seen and I feel sad beyond words for the families.  I couldn’t help but think of my 2 scrumcious nephews who I miss so much and simply cannot imagine what those families are going through right now.  One of the families owns a restaurant that I have eaten at a few times.  The day before the festival, I had gone there for lunch and the little girl was so excited to help her mom and give me a glass of water and my meal.  She was so cute – I will always remember her beautiful and happy smile.  I will pray for the 2 families to somehow find the strength to get through this. 

Through this experience I learned that this is a problem in my community.  Nobody knows how to swim here and therefore many children drown every year.  My Balat (supervisor) informed me that she would really like to have a community swimming pool built and have swimming lessons for the children.  I am completely ‘gung-ho’ about this idea.  I imagine this would be quite an expensive project so I am not sure how much of a reality it is, but will certainly look into this and keep you all posted.

There's a first time for everything: April 2, 2011

At the end of the work day on Friday, my Nayoke was trying to explain something to me.  Sounds simple but this is actually a feat that takes a lot of time and energy because of language issues.  He was leaving work a bit early and it seemed to me that he was doing so to go to the Wat to attend a funeral.  So, I awkwardly apologized for the loss and he proceeded to tell me to meet him at the Wat the following day.  I had no idea why I had to go to the Wat again for the 5^th time that week, but of course agreed to meet him.  To my knowledge there were no big community events and I didn’t hear any words stating that there was a monk ordination, so I dressed casually in white pants and a yellow shirt. So, as I ride to the Wat I feel fabulous: the sun is shining, wind blowing into my helmet, saying hello to the villagers, not having to think so much trying to concentrate on people talking, and just generally feeling a sense of relaxation.  I get to the Wat and Nayoke isn’t there.  So, I ask where he is and somebody tells me he’s not there, he’s at the SAO (the office).  I found this funny because the Nayoke didn’t call me with a change of plans, but I headed back to my bike to ride to the SAO.  On my way out of the Wat, a woman catches my eye and we smiled to each other so I went over to her and introduced myself.  It turns out that she’s a village headwomen, so it was great to meet her.  I figured that meeting her was the purpose for going to the Wat, even though Nayoke wasn’t there.  I get back on my bike, still feeling good and get to the SAO and there’s no sign of Nayoke.  I realize that for the first time, I’ve officially been greng jai’ed.  Greng Jai is a common Thai term that basically means consideration.  So, if you ask somebody to do something they say yes even if they don’t want to because they feel bad and just want to help you.  A less fortunate example of this is when you ask some for directions or where somebody/something is and they answer you whether they know the answer or not.   If they don’t know the answer, they will make something up because they would hate not to be able to help you….even though that’s not really helping.  So, basically the women who said the Nayoke was at the SAO really had no idea where he was but just didn’t want to ‘not help me’ so made something up.  It’s a concept I can’t seem to grasp my hands around because it seems backwards to me, but what can I do…I’m not here to change culture.  So, I grin and bear it and call the Nayoke.  He informed me that I had gone to the wrong Wat, he wasn’t at the SAO (with this, he chuckled) and told me that the security guard at the SAO would ride his bike with me to the correct Wat.  So, the Nayoke called the security guard to inform him of this, in turn waking the guy up from his mid-day nap.  I got to the Wat and my cluelessness gave us all a good laugh which always breaks the ice, so I’m always grateful for that.  I sit down with about 10 people and I realize that everybody is dressed in black.  It slowly hits me that I’m at the funeral the Nayoke was referring to the day before.  I had never been to a funeral in Thailand but I know that Thai’s where all black (literally, head to toe) at funerals.  At this moment I feel ten times more awkward in my cheerful white pants and yellow shirt.  I explain to them that I didn’t know this was a funeral and if time allows, I can go home to change.  My nayoke told me no worries, which is his favorite saying.  So, I listened and didn’t worry.  The little miscommunication led to some questions about Catholic funerals in America and due to limited language I was only able to share that we dress similarly…..yet, another small exchange of culture.   Suddenly, the entire village walks into the Wat (yes, it looked like nighttime with all the black, but ‘no worries’).  We did the usual chanting and Nayoke (who also happens to be the religious leader at that Wat) made a brief speech about the man who died, similar to a Catholic Eulogy.  I gathered that he was a father, brother and a good man.  I was surprised to see a women openly crying as Thai’s rarely show emotion other than happiness in public as they don’t like to make others feel uncomfortable….I was told this was the same at funerals, yet this women was clearly upset.  I wanted to give her a hug.  Afterwards, we all went to the casket that was placed on a covered platform that was all decorated and put these hand-made offerings made out of straw (should’ve taken a picture!) in front of the casket.  Again, similar to Catholics placing flowers on the casket at the cemetery.  As this was going on my Nayoke took this as an opportunity to introduce me on the microphone.  He has done this at every event in which there is a microphone and in Thailand, there is always a microphone.  He used the typical intro of where I was from, my age, what I’m here for, that I’m a vegetarian but can eat eggs (Thai vegetarians don’t eat dairy, so my vegetarianism is a bit different for them) and that I’ll be the person riding around the community on a bike and to say hello to me as I ride by.  For whatever reason, he left out the always included fact that I’m not married or have a boyfriend, I’m single.  I absolutely love this man!  For the finishing touch, the funeral ended with some fireworks.  They scared the crap out of me but I didn’t have the courage to ask why they let off fireworks at a funeral. 

I hope I expressed the humor that I found in this situation but I hope I expressed it as good humor. Life here is often hysterical and awkward to me, but only because I have never know what's going on!  Every experience, however, is interesting and another piece of the puzzle to Thai life and people. 

There is a farang in town! April 1, 2011

I apologize for the lengthly blog....just so much to share!

When I realized that today was April Fool’s Day, I considered trying to tell my co-workers about it....you know, as part of the Thai/American cultural exchange and all.  However, after week 1 I have learned that I can’t understand anybody and few people understand me….and that’s when I’m speaking Thai!  So, I’m going to wait a little while longer to inform them of American holidays/festivities until by language is up to par.

It’s been an interesting ride so far.  It was my first full week at work and I’ve gotten to know my co-workers a bit.  It’s clear they like to have a good time and they are pretty funny.  When I didn’t understand the conversations at lunch, I just laughed along with them, which was perfect because I needed a few good laughs.  I have visited some of the daycare centers which was refreshing.  I’ll be going back to each of them to read and sing songs in English with the kids.  The community is desperate to learn English and that is the one task I am certain they want me to be involved in.  Although I’ve never taught English I have no problem doing so as I’m here to give the people what they want.  I’m also here to build upon the community’s strengths, so getting involved with the daycare centers and schools is a good entry tool for me to do other things that utilize their strengths.  I personally think that youth are a great strength of all communities, so getting involved with the kids in the schools is my segway to throw in some youth development/empowerment projects with the kids. 

My greatest success so far has been exercise.   Sounds little, but let’s not underestimate the small successes.  I’ll preface this story with that I have been eating enough for a 700 pound man.  My new family thinks that because I’m a vegetarian I need to eat extra of everything to make up for the no meat thing.  They also don’t understand that I literally get fed everywhere I go when they aren’t around, so they get really upset if I eat small balls of sticky rice instead of big ones.  Not only am I eating tons, I’m eating food that is delicious because it’s been doused in oil, sugar and salt.  I should say that every fruit, veggie and egg I’ve eaten so far has come from the backyard, which is amazing, and they are becoming accustomed to me eating raw veggies. But despite that, this week my goal was to begin exercising.  Once I informed the new host family that I would begin running again, they were concerned about my body image and kept telling me that I’m not fat, I can eat all I want and I don’t have to exercise so much.  Let me state that in one week I went running twice, which is nothing!  So, the village kids were excited that I was going running and they decided to join me.  I was really looking forward to some alone time on this run so was slightly disappointed, but they were excited and so I went along with it.  We went to the school and the 4 girls ran with me for about 1 minute and then went to the playground because they’d had enough.  So, I got my alone run in anyway and afterwards we did push-ups and sit-ups together, which they found hysterical.  This was a win-win situation!  We had planned to do the same thing again the following night, which was a Friday night and I was excited about it.   Word must’ve gotten out because there were a few newcomers with us the following day.  When we got to the school I realized that Thai kids do the same thing American kids do on their Friday nights: hang out at the schools.  So, as me and my village groupies began running, random people joined us.  I was running with this one guy at one point who was 28 years old and it was his first time running.  There were even 2 tough guys hanging out on their motorcycles who joined us.  I realized the only reason they were running because the strange new ‘farang’ (literally means foreigner) is in town, but I didn’t care – I was just stoked that they were running, who cares why!  I do hope that this continues.  It was a busy weekend, chock full of funerals, monk ordinations, meetings and swimming at the Mekong River so we shall see if they come join me next week.

Eventually, people began to drop like flies so I stopped as well to join in on the volleyball game.  I quickly learned that I had introduced myself to the village lady boys…..which I have been waiting for.  Lady boys are basically transvestites (always guys who dress as women) and are very common in Thailand.  I also quickly learned that they play like the American male Olympic volleyball team, so I didn’t last long in the game, but I hung in for a bit.  They were fabulous.  There was one who was definitely the leader of the crew and will be a hard nut to crack, but when I left she asked me to come back the following day so I’ll take that as she’s willing to give me a shot J

So, this week I have experienced more awkward moments than I can count but also some good moments that have made me feel like I have a purpose here.  If the next 2 years simply allow me to become a part of this community, make friends, understand the way Thai’s live and share a little bit of America and myself, I’ll be happy.