After yet another easy ride (sorry again), we arrive on Don Khon, the more remote island of the 2 southern islands most backpackers go. Don Det, the other island, is known to be more "Island party backpacker", and I didn't want to go there. I find the "Island Party Backpacker" to be young, arrogant, culturally insensitive (although they think they are like the locals), wanna-be hippies. Three guys got off at Don Det before us and they fit the mold to a tee (sans dreadlocks). I said an internal thank you that the unanimous group decision was to stay on Don Khon instead.
Arrival to Don Khon led us to the search for a guesthouse, leaving our bags to be watched by Marj. We made a right and walked for 2km before we were all satisfied with a deal. After the little trek, we see a cute guesthouse literally right next door to where we got dropped off. We decided to scope it out, just in case. As we scoped out the potential new digs, Yens opened a bungalow door to peek in and we hear a yelp of sorts....apparently somebody was in there! As Yens begins his profuse apologies, he realizes the girl in the room was Ihsane, a Moroccan girl who Yens and Dane met previously along their travels. This world simply cannot get any smaller. Ishane expanded our crew to an extra level of fabulous, because that's exactly what she was: Fabulous with a capital F. We had dinner at a place with a nice sunset - food took about 2 hours, taking the concept of sabai sabai (take it easy) to a whole new level. However, the food was good and the nice atmosphere made it well worth it. We completed the evening with an awesome thunderstorm and walk back to the bungalow in the mud.
The next day, our crew of 6 rented bicycles and biked the long way around Don Khon to avoid some ridiculous $3 rip-off fee. Glad we are so cheap because it made for a great day of biking and taking the beautiful scenic route. We had lunch at a restaurant near the beach and later on, Paul and Ihsane went on an adventure to see a waterfall while the rest of us laid around on hammocks, sippin on coffee shakes. What?! This is called integrating into Laotian culture. Sabai sabai and enjoying it! Another night of a late dinner, thunderstorm, walk home in the mud. I was enjoying it all.
Due to some sicknesses and desire for Sabai Sabai, Marj and I were the only ones to rent bikes to scope out the other island of Don Det for something to do. It was still a quiet location but the aura was different from ours: nothing but guesthouses, convenience stores and the smell of pot in the air which gave me a feeling of foreigner over-accommodation. Insert internal thank you here. However, we did get to see some expertise over-packing of janky delivery motorbikes by a Laos man - always impressive to watch. Despite the pure joy Marj and I get out of that (it doesn't take much), the best part of Don Det was bumping into New Zealand Gus, AGAIN! Unfortunately, Heidi and Liam were not with him but he ended up staying with us and joined Paul and I for the evenings excursion.
These islands are known as the home of the rare and endangered Irawaddy dolphins, with only about 20 left. Boat rides to see them are promoted everywhere and we were all convinced it was just another scam...everyone except Paul, that is. He was convinced he would see dolphins. Despite my teasing about this the past 2 days, I found his enthusiasm sweet and decided to join him in the boat ride for the evening excursion, since nobody else would. But now we had a party of 3 since Gus was also into the dolphins.
We rode bikes to the boat dock and got in a wooden boat with gramps. I'll tell you, the boat ride along the Mekong alone was worth it. The trees, including the roots looked windswept from the form they've taken on due to the current. Some of the most bad-ass trees I've ever seen.
After about 20 minutes, Gramps stops the boat at a random rock, docks and tells us to look at the dolphins. Oh, ok. Once I had decided to go on this little excursion, I joined in on Paul's enthusiasm but was still surprised and super excited when I actually saw one! And then I saw it again and then another little guy popped up....and it went on like that for the 20 minutes we manned that rock. Granted, we saw them from afar, but close enough to distinguish an endangered dolphin popping it's scrumch little head out of the water with the naked eye.
Elated, we made our way back to share the news with our crew mates who, I'm pretty sure pretended to be excited. Off for another late dinner at the same place where we waited 2 hours, but enjoyed each others company. We had breakfast there the following day but didn't appreciate the wait as much since Marj and I were on a bit of a schedule. We were heading back to Thailand for a week and had a boat/bus to catch. Of course it all worked out and we were off to the Land of Smiles, a place I once called home and on some level, still do. A country that I love, but know intimately enough to have endured its frustrations.Yet this time I was going back as a tourist, no longer a PCV working there. Of the many emotions I felt, excitement was by far the most prominent and I was really looking forward to it.
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